Home' The Mt Barker Courier : The Courier - 2016-10-19 Contents PAGE 22 – The Courier Wednesday, October 19, 2016
Rise and rise of riesling
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Top wines for Christmas
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Send samples to Ross Noble, The
Courier wine writer, PO Box 6,
Bridgewater, SA 5155. Enquiries
Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc
2016 $19.99 CD.
Reserve Adelaide Hills
Sauvignon Blanc 2016 $18 CD
The Lucky Punter Adelaide Hills
Sauvignon Blanc 2016 $17 CD.
Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc
Betty & Lu Langhorne Creek
Sauvignon Blanc 2016 $17 CD.
Mollie and Merle Langhorne
Creek Verdehlo 2016 $17 CD.
McLaren Vale’s Shottesbrooke
is among many wineries based
outside Adelaide Hills and
Langhorne Creek, but which
source fruit from those regions.
Shottesbrooke, on Bagshaws
Road, was founded by Nick Holmes
in 1994. He has retired and his
stepson, winemaker Hamish
Maguire, is now at the helm and
has “expanded the winery and
re-worked the vineyard.”
The name comes from an estate
in Berkshire where the founder’s
grandfather was vicar in the
early 1900s”. Estate grown, the
Shottesbrooke savvy is light straw
color with green tints. It has juicy
passionfruit and pineapple on the
palate with citrus overtones and
Wines Reserve Adelaide Hills
Sauvignon Blanc 2016 is a lively
a Mt Pleasant pub where the range
was on sale. We had the then
current savvy which had more body
than most. It still does.
Sourced from the nearby Torrens
Valley it enhances that district’s
ability to grow quality fruit.
Greenish color, the Signature savvy
mix of tropical fruit and capsicum
on the nose is a great prelude to
the palate. This is almost full bodied
which most of the variety is not and
the line and length is impressive.
Clare based David O’Leary and
Norm Walker have taken over the
Johnston winery and cellar door,
near the entrance to Oakbank
Racecourse. They also now have
access to some proven vineyards
in the vicinity. Hence the horsey
theme to the locally sourced wines.
The O’Leary Walker savvy is a
spirited youngster, an apt choice to
have while watching the Melbourne
Cup. It’s light and bright with a kick
winner at good odds.
Blossom Hill is in the Accolade
stable (formerly Hardys), who do
not reveal the source of the fruit.
Why? Yet the wine is an absolute
delight, sweeter and juicier than
A few years ago, Bremerton won
a trophy for its sauvignon blanc at
the neighboring McLaren Vale Wine
Show. The Betty & Lu could do the
same at the Creek’s wine show.
Named for proprietors Bec and
Lucy Willson’s grandmothers, it’s
as sprightly as their grandchildren
Another from Bremerton named for
grandmas is the Mollie and Merle
verdehlo. Langhorne Creek has
some of Australia’s oldest vines
of the Portugese variety. This one
variety is noted for. Ideal for serving
slightly chilled on a sunny day.
BAROSSA-born Candice Helbig
and Kiwi-born Frewin Ries are
negotiants. They buy in fruit in small
quantity and high quality from well-
established single vineyards in the
Adelaide Hills and Barossa Valley.
Their label name is CRFT, an
acronym for craft.
Vineyard Adelaide Hills Gruner
Veltliner 2015 is an excellent
example of the Austrian white
three clones of the variety 15 years
ago. HHW’s Larry Jacobs, who
migrated with partner Marc Dobson
from South Africa where both were
part-time in the wine industry, says
“gru as we call it, is ... the most
food-friendly wine on the planet”.
The CRFT gru from Longview
the variety: Turkish delight, musk,
white pepper and spice. The CRFT
K1 Vineyard Kuitpo Adelaide Hills
Gruner Veltliner 2015 was whole
bunch-pressed and fermented in
stainless steel tanks with lees.
Fresh-sliced Packham pear aromas
appear on the bouquet while the
palate presents almost nectarine-
minerality. And like good riesling, it
is likely to further develop with time
in the cellar. The CRFT grus carry
an RRP of $29.The HHW Adelaide
Hills Gruner Veltliner 2014 has an
advantage with older vines and
Jacobs’ experience with the variety.
It has white peach and pineapple
rocky road and Turkish delight, plus
spice. HHW recommends serving
gru with white meats, spicy Asian
dishes and seafood. We tried it with
Gulf St Vincent pan-fried tommy
ruff. Yummy. $28 CD.
The CRFT K1 Vineyard Kuitpo
Adelaide Hills Gewurztraminer 2015
is from Geoff Hardy’s pioneering
vineyard in Kuitpo, near neighboring
McLaren Vale. Traminer, as it is
known, brings fond memories of the
Barossa version produced by the
late lamented Tolley family’s Pedare
label. It was clearly the best of the
variety in the nation. Bur when Wolf
Blass Winery interests acquired
Pedare, the Tanunda traminer
was bulldozed. Meanwhile, Geoff
Hardy’s traminer vineyard is one of
the few left. The CRFT traminer is a
with similar echoes of gru: Turkish
delight, musk, bath soap and,
above all, spice. Have it with spicy
Asian food or a pizza. $27.
SPRING is in the air and it’s time
to ring your local wine retailer and
check out its range of rosés. Rosé is
just the trick for a cool – but not too
cold – drink on a sunny day.
Here are a couple I recommend.
The Shingleback McLaren Vale
Salmon Rosé 2016 is an unusual
blend of pinot noir, shiraz, grenache
and a dash of mourvedre. The
grenache is from old – bordering on
ancient – unirrigated bush vines.
While pinot provides strawberry and
red cherry characters to the mix,
shiraz contributes more powerful,
varietal blackberry fruits and the
juicy richness of grenache is
complemented by the small amount
of mourvedre adding complexity. We
enjoyed it with – you guessed it –
smoked salmon. $18 CD.
The Lambrook Adelaide Hills Rosé
2015, made by Adam Lampit with
Michael Sykes, is a blend of 60%
pinot noir and 40% shiraz. It is fresh
cherry from the pinot with blueberry
and a hint of spice from the cool-
climate shiraz. In the glass it is vivid
pink and the nose and palate live up
to the expectations. It went well with
a vegetarian pizza. $20.
By Ross Noble
FROM its original homes in
Germany, Austria and Alsace
(France), riesling now is planted in
31 countries. Australia has around
4000ha of the ‘noble grape’. SA
leads the way with Clare Valley and
Eden Valley (in the Barossa) the
main producers. Rapidly increasing
in growing riesling are cool-climate
sub-regions in WA, Victoria, NSW
Many like their rieslings young and
fresh, but some prefer it aged when
it gradually acquires toasty honeyed
characters. Here are some rieslings
I have enjoyed recently.
HALF FULL: Artwine’s Judy and
Glen Kelly, formerly of Clare, are
now based at Woodside, with a
modern cellar door and art gallery
among the vines. But they retained
their Clare Valley vineyards. The
Artwine Glass Half Full Clare Valley
Riesling 2016 is a lively youngster
with aromas of lime and citrus rind
with blossom to boot. The palate
presents lemony citrus amid crisp,
natural acid. $22CD.
UPFRONT: Sevenhill winemaker
Liz Heidenreich and Brother John
May SJ Jesuit Winemaker Emeritus
describe the Sevenhill Inigo Estate
Grown Clare Valley Riesling
2016 character as “energetic and
upfront”. Established in 1851,
vineyards in Clare Valley and
proceeds of wine sales support
the Jesuits’ charitable work. This
is a riesling with “formidable citrus
punch laced with pithy lime”.
COOL SPRINGS: Since the
mid 1970s, Woodstock has grown
quality riesling in the sandy soils
of cool Blewett Springs, within
McLaren Vale. Named for the
matriarch of the Collett family,
the Woodstock Mary McTaggart
McLaren Vale 2016 is vibrant and
fresh on the nose and palate. There
is a basic minerality behind the
overt lime and lemon, balanced by
refreshing natural acid. $28 CD.
The Woodstock Mary McTaggart
McLaren Vale Riesllng 2010 shows
the variety’s ability to gain luscious
honeyed characters with bottle age.
$30 CD. Winemakers Scott Collett
and Ben Glaetzer recommend
drinking their rieslings with King
George whiting and salad.
TAYLOR MADE: The Taylor
family owns the largest planting of
vines, 400ha, in the Clare Valley.
Located at the southern end of the
wins a lot of gongs on the wine
show circuit. The Taylors’ Clare
Valley Riesling 2016 has fresh
lime and lemon on the bouquet
and more of the same plus bracing
acid to cut through the palate. The
winemakers suggest serving at
about 8-10C to retain the ample
ORGANIC: David Bruer was a
pioneer in Australia of producing
at his vine nursery at Langhorne
Creek, in his vineyards there and
at Eden Valley and Loxton. The
Temple Bruer Eden Valley Riesling
2015 was made from grapes picked
in the early morning of February
28, during an outstanding vintage.
Pale straw with greenish tints, it
lemon pith and pineapple. The
palate reveals lifted lime and lemon
leading to a touch of nectarine at
next 10 years. $19.50.
VENERABLE: The venerable
Patritti family, who established its
winery at Dover Gardens back
in 1926, has a prized vineyard
at Blewett Springs, the source of
the Patritti Estate Riesling 2015.
It’s zippy, vibrant and tingling with
pith and marmalade. Pack it in
an Esky for a picnic or the beach.
$12.50 CD. Also at the cellar door
riesling from the 2004 vintage.
500ml. $15 CD.
LATE PICK: Late in a leisurely
dinner, we unearthed a slender
375ml Nepenthe Late Harvest
Adelaide Hills Riesling 2010. It was
an absolute treat with soft cheeses,
raisins and chocolate. $25 CD.
Local wine selections
The My Selection column on
my fortnightly wine page in The
Courier is exclusively for wines
produced from regions within
this weekly newspaper’s main
circulation districts. Your winery
is invited to send samples to
Ross Noble, The Courier Wine
writer, PO Box 6, Bridgewater
5155, or delivered to Ross
Noble c/o Bridgewater Deli, 394
Mt Barker Road, Bridgewater.
Candice Helbig and Frewin
Ries of CRFT Wines in their
Arranmore Vineyard, Carey
you should try
rosé in spring
Negotiants craft the very food friendly drop
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