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Wednesday, July 13, 2016 – PAGE 19
Shiraz the winter warmer
you should try
Bird in Hand
Two in the Bush Mt Lofty Ranges Shiraz 2014
Bremerview Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2014
Hand Crafted Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills
Shiraz 2014 $30.
Picnic Adelaide Hills Cabernet Shiraz 2013
The Bird in Hand Two in the Bush shiraz is named
after a shaft in the Bird in Hand gold mine at
Woodside, nearby the winery. It is typical cool-
climate shiraz, with aromas of blackberry, peppery
spice and a hint of chocolate. Purplish crimson, it is
medium bodied with blackberry jam and spice on the
palate with well integrated oak and fine tannins.
From Bleasdale, down at Langhorne Creek, where the
vineyards are on the Bremer River floodplains, the
Bremerview shiraz is one of the winery’s best sellers.
It is full-bodied, with whiffs of berry fruits and spice
emerging in the glass. Plum and dark berry fruits are
on the palate along with nuances of white pepper and
cloves. Just the drink to enjoy around the barbecue.
The Catlin shiraz made by Darryl Catlin is from one
of the Hills’ best regarded shiraz vineyards. Small
batches of whole berries and whole bunches were left
on skins “for an extended period”. Flavors of berry
fruits and spice dominate the palate which extends to
a long, mouthfilling finish.
Nairne based Howard Vineyard is a popular venue
at weekends for picnics when the Picnic range of
reds and whites in the cellar door are all the go.
Winemaker Tom Northcott has fashioned a mix
of estate grown cabernet and shiraz, with the best
characters of both varieties seamlessly woven for a
rich and flavorsome drink, just the tick to go with a
platter of cheese and greens.
BORDERER : Horticulturist and
vigneron Frank Mitolo delves into
the Anglo-Scot border wars of the
15th and 16th Centuries, particularly
of the bloodthirsty, lawless Reiver
family, whose allegiance was first to
the family, not to the crown whether
English or Scottish. The Mitolo
Reiver Barossa Valley Shiraz 2013
is a muscled, robust red, the epitome
of Barossa shiraz sourced from
unirrigated old vines. Blackberry
compote and licorice are on the
bouquet and the palate presents layers
of dark fruit flavors persisting into
great length. $58. The Mitolo Jester
McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 uses fruit
from near Aldinga, where sea breezes
temper the vines. Pervasive aromas
and flavors of blackcurrant, plum and
chocomint make the Jester a joy to be
BAROSSA BEN: Ben Schild
(1895–1956) was an early settler in
Barossa Valley. In 1952 he bought
Three Springs Farm in Rowland
Flat and embraced viticulture, later
expanding to the Lyndoch area. The
Schild Estate Ben Schild Reserve
Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Shiraz
2012 is from the estate’s Angus Brae
Vineyard. The quality of the southern
Barossa fruit from an outstanding
vintage is paramount, while maturation
in French, American and Hungarian
oak, seamlessly integrated, provides a
great mix of flavors ranging through
plum and blackberry to mocha into
a lipsmacking finish. $40 CD. The
Schild Estate Barossa Valley Shiraz
2014 has a front label showing work-
stained hands – of the earth. Earthy
aromas of ripe berry fruits and old
leather lead to a palate of blackberry,
dark chocolate and vanillan oak.
NIRVANA: Leasingham based
Claymore Wines has everything going
for it with the release of the Claymore
Nirvana Reserve Clare Valley Shiraz
2012: dry-grown grapes from century-
plus vines in an outstanding vintage,
producing rich, primary fruit of intense
flavor, weight and structure. It all
begins with heady aromas of dark
berry fruits, plum and spicy oak. The
palate has upfront blackberry jam,
dark chocolate and licorice flavors,
smooth tannins and good natural
acid suggesting a decade in the cellar
would bring reward. $45 CD.
WAR HORSE: Pirramimma
winemaker Geoff Johnston went to
“old contoured low trellis vines ...
providing miniscule grape yield”
for this quintessential McLaren
Vale shiraz. The Pirramimma War
Horse McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012
is a limited release, immediately
engaging with its bouquet of dark
berries, spicy plum and black olive,
which leads to mouthfilling flavors of
cranberry, aniseed and Cherry Ripe,
and well integrated cedary oak amid
firm tannins. $80 CD. Established in
1892, Pirramimma in 1914 bought
the adjacent Katunga winery, cellars
and vineyard. The Pirramimma
Katunga McLaren Vale Shiraz 2013
was sourced from these old vines.
Shiraz was picked at night along with
some viognier. Fermenting both on
skins for 10 days brought out color,
fragrance and varietal characters.
Maturation followed in older French
and American oak with 10% on
new French oak to add savory spice.
Expressive of the region, it has ripe
dark berry flavors with hints of licorice
and chocolate. $20 CD.
PURPLE PARTNERS: Grower
Mark Slade and winemaker Craig
Stansborough are partners in
Purple Hands Wines, north west of
Williamstown in southern Barossa.
The Purple Hands Barossa Valley
Shiraz 2014 is dense red in color,
aromatic, and is full bodied with rich,
ripe dark plum and blackberry flavors
within a smooth texture in a long
FIRST CUT: Re-born Haselgrove
in recent years gained new owners,
who buy fruit from selected growers
as well as using grapes from their
own vines. The Haselgrove First Cut
McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 is named
for the winemaking term ‘first cut’
in the pressing cycle – the softer
free run juice/wine is separated from
the second cut or pressings. This
gives the wine “great drinkability”.
as well as complex characters from
each vineyard, say the winemakers:
“Willunga offers fruit with dark
berries, hints of fennel and chewy
tannins while McLaren Flat provides
lifted floral notes and finer tannins”.
Aged for 12 months in French oak, the
First Cut is a good drink and value at
PILOT’S VIEW: When Woodstock
founder Doug Collett was flying
Spitfires over Europe during WW2
he had a great view of vineyards
and determined table wine would
largely replace fortifieds in Australia.
Back home he bought a vineyard at
McLaren Flat where the Woodstock
winery and Coterie is now operated by
his son Scott. The Woodstock Pilot’s
View McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 has
the fragrance of blackberry and spice
with layers of dark berry fruits amid
soft tannins. $38 CD.
SAMUEL’S GARDEN: The
Yalumba Samuel’s Garden Collection
celebrates the Angaston-based
winery’s direct lineage to Australia’s
first vine plantings. Some of these
could be found in Samuel Smith’s
garden 166 years ago. The Yalumba
Patchwork Barossa Shiraz 2014 is
named for the parcels of fruit sourced
from a patchwork of vineyards in the
region, from the cooler upper reaches
to the warmer areas on the valley floor.
Together they achieve complexity and
balance. The Patchwork provides a
full-flavored, rich and rewarding drink,
a multi-layered palate finishing long
and satisfying. $22.
NOSTALGIC NEEDS: In 1925,
Giovanni Patritti was one of the
earliest Italians to settle in Australia.
Within a few decades his passion for
winemaking turned into a business,
trading as John Patritti Brighton. His
JPB bottles and barrels were sent all
over Australia to satisfy the nostalgic
needs of newly arrived immigrants.
The Patritti JPB Single Vineyard
McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 remains in
demand Australia-wide, indeed world-
wide. Sourced from Patritti’s Blewitt
Springs vineyard, the JPB is a flagship
wine of the Dover Gardens winery. It
is simply outstanding and astounding
in the depths of flavor it reaches. $50
COOL SPRINGS: The Blewitt
Springs sub-region of McLaren Vale
is cool in its climate and ‘cool’ in
its appeal to serious shiraz devotees.
The Beresford Estate Blewitt Springs
McLaren Vale Shiraz 2014 is described
on the front label thus: “the estate
vineyard in Blewitt Springs yields
exceptional fruit that speaks of the
elements and the soil”. With minimal
irrigation, and little intervention in the
winemaking, this is a luscious wine,
deeply colored, aromatic, and with a
mix of mulberry and blueberry flavors
amid a rich and rounded palate with
lingering, unobtrusive tannins. $50.
EIGHT UNCLES: Fox Gordon is
operated by Sam and Rachel Atkins
and winemaker Natasha Mooney.
The Fox Gordon Eight Uncles
Barossa Shiraz 2014 is from old vines
which are farmed under biodiversity
conditions. The wines are made with
very little intervention “to capture
the true essence of the Barossa”. The
Eight Uncles is an opulent shiraz
and Tash gives the fruit full rein in
expression with a nod to maturation
in French Oak. She says the wine is
“classy and comforting like the old
boys for whom it is named”. $19.95.
___ _______ _______ _
Send samples to Ross
Noble, The Courier
wine writer, PO Box 6,
Bridgewater, SA 5155.
Enquiries 8339 2679.
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